Where's the schematic?

it is identical to this one [https://easyeda.com/karthik.mc14/l298n-driver](https://easyeda.com/karthik.mc14/l298n-driver)

So, did you just clone Karthik's PCB?

Yeah cause im a very noob on PCB I just wanted an H bridge on a multifunction board so that I no longer have a tangle of cables on my Pi

So your PCB is identical to Karthik's: you have made **no** changes to it **in any way**?

but it is not 100% copied. On his PCB, some connections were incomplete

and current sensing B is changed to GND

Any other changes?

yes i had to choose a few parts for the assembling from a different manufacturer for JLPCB c4, c3,  D9 - D16 and Q1

However, the data sheets sounded the same

Please provide a detailed list of all the changes you made to the original, including datasheets for the original and changed parts, so that we know exactly what state your PCB is in.

So I added SENSB to the GND network. L298N:IN1 \- IN4 are connected to a ribbon connector \(Network U1\_5\, U1\_7\, U1\_10\, U1\_12\) I've used other parts c4, c3,  D9 - D16 and Q1 This is my Bom File | | | | | | | | | | | | --- | --- | --- | --- | --- | --- | --- | --- | --- | --- | | ID | Name | Designator | Footprint | Quantity | Manufacturer Part | Manufacturer | Supplier | Supplier Part | _Price | | 1 | 1206W4F1001T5 | R14 | R1206 | 1 | | | | | | | 2 | M7 | D15,D14,D13,D11,D10,D9,D12,D16 | SMA(DO-214AC) | 8 | | | | | | | 3 | VE-221M1VTR-0810 | C4,C3 | CAP-SMD_BD8.0-L8.3-W8.3-RD | 2 | | | | | | | 4 | L298N | U1 | MULTIWATT-15_L19.6-W5.0-P1.27-L | 1 | L298N | HGSEMI | LCSC | C434589 | $1.815153 | | 5 | KT-0603R | U5 | LED0603-R-RD | 1 | | | | | | | 6 | EK508V-04P | CN1 | CONN-TH_EK508V-04P | 1 | EK508V-04P | Dinkle | LCSC | C182807 | $0.498333 | | 7 | 67996-200HLF | H2 | HDR-TH_2P-P2.54-V-R2-C1-S2.54 | 1 | 67996-200HLF | Amphenol ICC | LCSC | C236045 | $0.0271 | | 8 | TO-252-2_L6.5-W6.1-P4.58-LS10.0-TL | Q1 | TO-252-2_L6.5-W6.1-P4.58-LS10.0-TL | 1 | | | | | | | 9 | EK508V-02P | CN2 | CONN-TH_EK508V-02P | 1 | EK508V-02P | Dinkle | LCSC | C99392 | $0.302273 | Thats all

For the parts you changed: Datasheets for the **original** and for the **changed** parts.

used [https://jlcpcb.com/parts/componentSearch?searchTxt=C171735](https://jlcpcb.com/parts/componentSearch?searchTxt=C171735) original [https://lcsc\.com/product\-detail/Others\_ROQANG\-VT1V221M0810\_C310848\.html](https://lcsc.com/product-detail/Others_ROQANG-VT1V221M0810_C310848.html) M7 used (I had the feeling that I couldn't go wrong) [https://jlcpcb.com/parts/componentSearch?searchTxt=C171735](https://jlcpcb.com/parts/componentSearch?searchTxt=C171735) 78M05 (same here) [https://jlcpcb.com/parts/componentSearch?searchTxt=C171735](https://jlcpcb.com/parts/componentSearch?searchTxt=C171735)

Datasheets please not links to catalogue parts.

I just looked at Karthik's original schematic. Others may be prepared to but I am not wasting my time trying to unravel his almost unreadable schematic and then trying to map that plus any of your changes onto your final PCB. Please read the [Must read] topic: [https://easyeda.com/forum/topic/How-to-ask-for-help-and-get-an-answer-71b17a40d15442349eaecbfae083e46a](https://easyeda.com/forum/topic/How-to-ask-for-help-and-get-an-answer-71b17a40d15442349eaecbfae083e46a) (which as a self-confessed noob, you owe it to yourself and everyone else in this community to have read before you started!), especially sections (1), (2.2), (2.3), (4) and, for completeness, (6). Then please create a schematic of what is actually on your pcb and how it is connected, with all the right parts, BoM info and PCB Footprints, plus all your netnames, part prefixes etc so that the schematic represents what is on your PCB. Post the link to it here when done.

I would have liked just one answer. I would have thought someone who knows what he is doing takes a look at it and possibly sees the issue. Since everything is appropriately named in my project, you should be able to read it just like schematic. The data sheets are included in the links from my post. Before I spend hours discussing what you think a question should look like, I'll get help elsewhere.

@granatelbart Hello It will be so much easier if you provide us the link for your design :) Andy asked too many questions just because it will be not clear enough to assist you without taking a look at your schematic, so kindly provide the schematic link (make it public project) and we will support you with the right guidance. Thank you for your understanding :)

So I updated my Project with a Sheed [https://easyeda\.com/granatelbart/new\_pcb\_2020\-08\-20\_12\-12\-46](https://easyeda.com/granatelbart/new_pcb_2020-08-20_12-12-46)

And I re-created the H bridge

@granatelbart, Thanks for redrawing. It would help if you can tidy it up a bit first though as described in (2.2) and (4) in: [https://easyeda.com/forum/topic/How-to-ask-for-help-and-get-an-answer-71b17a40d15442349eaecbfae083e46a](https://easyeda.com/forum/topic/How-to-ask-for-help-and-get-an-answer-71b17a40d15442349eaecbfae083e46a) Please: 1. Draw wires to pins not overlapping their ends: that will avoid all the spurious and confusing join dots and wire breakages when you drag things around; 2. Clearly identify supply and ground nets;  3. Put positive supplies at the top of the schematic and ground at the bottom (and for futire reference, draw any negative supplies below the ground on the sheet);  4. Add netnames to nets to improve readability. This will help when creating the PCB and debugging the board;  5. Try to draw the schematic so that inputs are on the left and outputs are on the right so that the signal and power flow thhrough the circuit is cleared to the reader; 6. Group the power supply components into an area on their own out of the way of the main circuit;  7. Use netnames and net flags to declutter the wiring to make the schematic more readable;  8. Identify inputs and outputs and add other informative information. To help you understand how helpful these seemingly tedious requests are, I have redrawn your schematic here: [https://easyeda.com/andyfierman/l298-motor-driver](https://easyeda.com/andyfierman/l298-motor-driver) Please look carefully at the differences between your initial schematic and how the changes I suggest improve the readability of the schematic and if you wish to try it, the resulting PCB when you do Convert to PCB... I have rationalised the input connections, downrated the 5V regulator to a more suitable lower power part, added two extra decoupling capacitors as required in the L298N datasheet and apps notes, and created a new symbol for the L298N (simply because none of the library parts appealed to my sense of schematic elegance). If you are desperate to salvage the boards you already have then put your schematic into the same project as the PCB you already have and then manually tidentify and name the nets in the PCB so that they are the same as those in the schematic otherwise there is no way for anyone to compaare the connectivity between the schematic and the PCB. If you are not bothered about salvaging the boards you already have then it is easier to just do Convert to PCB and redesign it from scratch in your new project.

@andyfierman I once presented my sheet the way you did it. Does it look better now?

@granatelbart, Your original post was asking for help in understanding why a board that you built up from a PCB for which you had no schematic, did not work: "I created this H bridge and had it made. unfortunately it doesn't work...I would be happy if someone could show me my mistake" You now seem to have removed that PCB and be discussing the schematic that you have just created. So once again, we cannot help you because now we cannot see what mistake there may have been on your board!

@andyfierman My mistake was to take an idea from someone else instead of thinking for myself. could you skim over my sheed to see if it would work?

You have made the diagram messy and unclear again so it is harder to read and understand. Please describe the signals on the IN1 - IN4, ENA and ENB inputs and how they connect to the board on which your motor board is mounted.

@andyfierman IN1 - IN4 is connected to Raspberry PI ENA and ENB is High so I insert 5V and bridged them via Jumper

@granatelbart, So what happens to ENB when you open the link? It floats. You cannot leave unconnected inputs on logic devices floating: they must be tied to a logic high or low. So add a 10k resistor from ENB to ground so that when you remove the link, ENB pulls low. And the only ground connection between this board and the RasPi is on the power connector? So all the noisy motor current and als the logic signals ground returns are going through a single pin back to the PasPi. Bad Signal Integrity plan. Asking for interference and crosstalk in the logic signals. If you look at my schematic you'll see that each of the IN1, IN2, ENA and IN3, IN4, ENB input groups have their own localised ground return pins.

@andyfierman I add 10K Resistor with GND  to ENA and ENB And i added 2 Pin Header to ENA and ENB Can you take a look at it