Is this the project? [https://easyeda.com/joe.massimino/20db-attenuator](https://easyeda.com/joe.massimino/20db-attenuator)

The auto router is not good at now, we will fix it at v6.1

@andyfierman  No, it was the bigger board, but when I went  and closed it all, then came back in, it caused me to have to generate an all new PCB, and it went fine. I'm just happy that I did not have a very complicated board, or i would have been very mad. It was the update that was cause issues, just until I allowed the update to happen. The other board you saw is very simple, and the only part that gave me trouble was the switch. The drawing that the company did for me was full of errors, in that the numbers did not add up to the total size of the switch. Once I emailed the math on their numbers, they did a better drawing and sent it to me.  I should also be getting some micro DP3T switches from Mouser that I ordered, I will check them and see if they might work better than the ones I have coming from China via Ebay.  They cost more, so they might be much better.

"the only part that gave me trouble was the switch. The drawing that the company did for me was full of errors, in that the numbers did not add up to the total size of the switch." This exactly demonstrates the points I made in several other threads about getting parts from reputable suppliers with good quality properly documented datasheets and dimensional drawings. "I should also be getting some micro DP3T switches from Mouser" Is there a link to a datasheet on the Mouser device page? * If you have created a schematic symbol and PCB footprint for this switch in the library, please add a Description and links to the manufacturer's (and/or supplier's) device page and datasheets like this:  which will then show up when people hover over the part like this:  You can do this for the symbol and the footprint as I described to you in my earlier threads with you. Thanks.

Andy, you have been very helpful in this project. I have learned how to attach a pCB footprint to a schematic symbol.  I can create a PCB image, but the spacing of the pads for the pins is problematic. I turn snap off, and make the grid .01 mm, and yet when I measure, i can't get the spacing right where i need it.  I am trying to get 2.5mm between two sets of pins, and I never get 2.5, it jumps to a little higher, or lower, but never falls on 2.5mm.  I'm puzzled because with snap off, the sky should be the limit, i should be able to put those pads anywhere i want, but i can't.   The switch is made by E-Switch, and is part # EG 2310A  I got them from Mouser, and i have the engineering drawing that goes with them, but that does little good when I can't place pads where i need them.

Hi Joe, I think you're thinking about the pin placement accuracy the wrong way round. You're overcomplicating trying to get an accurate pin placement when you can get the tool to do it for you. Set the grid to 2.5mm then set the snap to 2.5mm and the pins should snap bang on to the 2.5mm grid. Set the origin:  to the centre of pin 1. Then once the pins are placed the outline can be drawn in with some more convenient snap and/or grid dimensions. However, please note this post: [https://easyeda.com/forum/topic/Strange-snap-behavior-in-PCB-editor-88b86b820bb24cde9f3e765e3d97bd90](https://easyeda.com/forum/topic/Strange-snap-behavior-in-PCB-editor-88b86b820bb24cde9f3e765e3d97bd90)

@Joseph Massimino, I should have pointed this out before. There's an easy way to accurately place pads in the PCB and PCB Lib Editors, irrespective of the grid and snap settings. Decide which point is used as the origin in the datasheet dimensional diagram (this should make working out all the other dimensions easier). Work out the XY co-ordinates of all the pad and hole centres and of the vertices of the outline of the part w.r.t. to this origin. Now place and configure your first pad anywhere you like and then select it and set the XY co-ordinates in the right hand Center X and Center Y attributes in the right hand panel. Repeat for all other pads and holes. Drawing component outlines in the silkscreen layer as straight lines is easier than trying to shape and locate a polygon. This is because it is possible to define both the start and end points of a single straight line as pairs of XY co-ordinates. This makes positioning and aligning the endpoints and edges of the outline much easier. If after placing the pads and holes the origin is reset to the centre of the outline this may make drawing outlines based on simple rectangular shapes even easier. Then for a rectangular outline only the XY co-ordinates of the opposite corners are needed. The other two pairs of co-ordinates are the same but with the signs changed. Hence it is only necessary to place, say, the top line, position it and then copy it and repeat with a second set of co-ordinates for bottom line. Repeat the process for the left hand side and right hand side. For example if the bottom left corner is -X,Y then the upper right hand corner is X,-Y. Hence the top line is -X,-Y, X,-Y; the bottom line is -X,Y, X,Y; the left hand side is -X,-Y, -X,Y; and the right hand side is X,-Y, X,Y. Just be careful when making the co-ordinate calculations and remember not to move anything using the mouse as it will snap to the snap setting and it will then probably be necessary to manually enter the XY co-ordinates again.

Here's how to directly set the origin using XY coordinates... 

@andyfierman Please find my current post about the PCB image that does not appear properly when I attach it to the schematic view. It had always worked before, so I  imagine that I made a mistake, but i don't know where, I included a picture of what I got.