1. You need 100nF ceramic X7R dielectric power supply decoupling caps directly on the VCC pins to ground of each of u3, u6, u7, u8. 2. There's something not right about the connection to left and left (around U2). Where does the connection to the two cathodes come from? 3. Please refresh the circuits around u6 and u7 so they are not overlaid. At the moment they are unnecessarily hard to read. I recommend that you stop this project for a little while, read (2.2), (4) and (6) in: [https://easyeda\.com/andyfierman/Welcome\_to\_EasyEDA\-31e1288f882e49e582699b8eb7fe9b1f](https://easyeda.com/andyfierman/Welcome_to_EasyEDA-31e1288f882e49e582699b8eb7fe9b1f) and: [https://docs.google.com/document/d/1ZRkPPMID68mBz9j9RMIJARNSXK12PDULZXP7kiThvDg/edit?usp=drivesdk](https://docs.google.com/document/d/1ZRkPPMID68mBz9j9RMIJARNSXK12PDULZXP7kiThvDg/edit?usp=drivesdk) and then try to design a much simpler one right the way through to a PCB design and generating and checking the Gerbers. You don't have to order PCBs for this leaning project but by doing all that you will be in much better shape to finish off the project you're attempting right now and have a much higher chance of success on the first spin of the project. :)

Well first of all move the decoupling capacitors on the devices that do have them above or below the IC itself.  No need to place them on top of U6 and U7. Add decouplers on the rest of the ICs.  In theory a 328 needs 3 decouplers, but you aren't using the A-Ds so one will do. Why use a Xtal on the 328 ?    Get rid of it and C5 and C6 and use the internal clock which will be more than good enough to flash leds. I don't know how much software you need but if less than 8k, maybe use the cheaper ATTINY85 ? In either case put in a 6 pin SPI programming port on the board so you can reprogram the processor easily from a USBasp or similar. What does U1 actually do ?  Couldn't the processor do it in software ? Is R2 surface mount ?  I'd stick to through hole wherever you can for now. How much current do your LEDs take at the transient peak ?   If more than the microUSB can supply then I would suggest C2 needs to be a lot more than 22uF. In any case, put a 100nF in parallel with the 22uF so you can use a standard electrolytic capacitor there. Put some sort of label on the VCC of U2.  The round circle isn't obviously connected to the LEDs at first sight. Why use Bluetooth ?  Have you considered an ESP8266 WiFi module for which there is more software support, and it can even serve webpages ? Can SW1 actually switch 2 Amps (or more ?) without welding itself solid ?   Can't you just switch the EN line on the switchmode chip ? That said, I wish I'd been able to build things this complex when I was 14 !   We were limited to a few transistors and a couple of op-amps in those days :-) Hope this helps.  Shout if you need more info. Mike

Thanks. Helps alot.